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History & Background
The Southern Song Imperial Street (南宋御街) was the central axis of Lin'an (临安), capital of the Southern Song Dynasty (1127–1279). When the Song court fled south after the fall of northern China to the Jurchen Jin dynasty, they established their new capital here in Hangzhou — and this street became the most important thoroughfare in the empire. Emperors walked this road for temple ceremonies at the city's major shrines; it was literally the "imperial way," reserved for the emperor's procession and closed to ordinary traffic on ceremonial days.
After the fall of the Song Dynasty, the street evolved into Zhongshan Middle Road (中山中路), named after Sun Yat-sen, and became Hangzhou's commercial heart during the Republic of China era (1912–1949). Wealthy merchants and bankers transformed the streetscape, erecting Western-style bank buildings, Art Deco facades, and modern shop-houses alongside the older Chinese traditional architecture. The result is a living architectural museum where buildings from three distinct eras — Song, Qing, and Republic — stand side by side in a single streetscape found nowhere else in China.
In 2009, the Hangzhou city government completed a major restoration of the historic streetscape, widening pedestrian areas, refurbishing heritage buildings, and — most remarkably — uncovering sections of the original Song-era road surface that had been buried for centuries. Today, the Southern Song Imperial Street is one of Hangzhou's most rewarding walks: quieter and more authentic than the tourist-heavy Hefang Street, rich with architectural detail, and free to explore at your own pace.
How to Get There
By Metro
Line 1 Ding'an Road Station (定安路站), Exit C → walk north 3 minutes to reach the historic section of Zhongshan Middle Road. This is the most convenient option.
From West Lake
A pleasant 10-minute walk east from the Lakeside (湖滨) area. Head east along Jiefang Road, then turn south onto Zhongshan Middle Road.
From Xiaohe Street
Approximately 20 minutes by taxi or Metro (take Line 5, transfer to Line 1 at Chengzhan Station, then exit at Ding'an Road).
By Bus
Routes 7, 40, and 59 stop at the Zhongshan Middle Road station, right along the historic stretch.
Walking Connection
The street connects south to Hefang Street (清河坊) — Hangzhou's famous pedestrian shopping lane — and north to Wulin Square, the city's modern commercial center. You can walk the entire length as part of a longer city exploration.
Core Sections to Explore
Northern Section (Gulou → Zhongshan Middle Road)
The most architecturally rich stretch. Republic-era bank buildings, the old Zhejiang Industrial Bank, and European-style facades line both sides of the street. The Southern Song Imperial Street Museum (南宋御街陈列馆) is located here — free entry, and it displays the excavated Song-era road surface along with artifacts from the imperial capital. Don't miss the glass-covered excavation just outside the museum, where you can literally look down at the original Song-dynasty stone paving.
Middle Section (The Commercial Heart)
Traditional Chinese medicine shops, heritage bookstores, and silk merchants give this section its distinctive character. The highlight is Huqingyutang (胡庆余堂) pharmacy with its stunning Qing-era building — one of the finest traditional commercial buildings in all of China. The street narrows here, creating a more intimate, old-Hangzhou atmosphere that feels worlds away from the modern city just blocks away.
Southern Connection to Hefang Street
The historic section flows seamlessly into Hefang Street (清河坊), Hangzhou's most famous pedestrian shopping lane. This is the busiest part of the walk — street food stalls, souvenir shops, and the traditional medicine museum draw large crowds, especially on weekends. Hefang is more commercialized than the Imperial Street, but it's worth experiencing for the energy and the snack options.
Notable Architecture
- Huqingyutang Pharmacy (胡庆余堂) — Founded in 1874 by the legendary merchant Hu Xueyan, this stunning Qing-era building features an intricately carved wooden interior and traditional courtyard layout. It still operates as both a working pharmacy and a museum, making it one of the rare places where you can experience living history.
- Zhejiang Industrial Bank Building (浙江兴业银行旧址) — Built in 1923, this Art Deco bank building is one of the best-preserved Republic-era structures in Hangzhou. Its stone facade, geometric ornamentation, and grand banking hall have been carefully restored and now house a cultural exhibition space.
- Former Zhejiang Provincial Bank — A neoclassical facade with columns and pediment details that would not look out of place in a European capital. It now houses a heritage exhibition about Hangzhou's banking and commercial history.
- Yongjin Cloth Shop (涌金绸庄) — A traditional Chinese shop-house with beautifully carved stone lintels above the entrance. The building exemplifies the commercial architecture of late-Qing and early-Republic Hangzhou.
- Southern Song Road Excavation — A glass-covered section near the museum where you can look down at the original Song-era stone road surface, preserved exactly as it was laid over 800 years ago. Informational panels explain the road construction techniques and the history of the imperial processions.
- Republic-era Row Houses — A continuous stretch of 1920s–30s shop-houses with distinctive overhanging balconies, carved wooden shutters, and decorative parapets. Walking past them feels like stepping back into pre-war Hangzhou.
Recommended Shops & Experiences
- Huqingyutang Museum (胡庆余堂中药博物馆) — Free museum inside the historic pharmacy. Learn about traditional Chinese medicine history, see antique medicinal tools, and explore the beautiful Qing-era architecture. Allow 30–45 minutes.
- Xinhua Bookstore Heritage Branch — A beautiful old bookstore housed in a Republic-era building with original wooden shelving and high ceilings. A lovely place to browse, with a small English-language section and postcards featuring old Hangzhou photographs.
- Wangxingji Fan Shop (王星记扇庄) — Traditional hand-painted fans from Hangzhou's most famous fan maker, in business since 1875. Choose from sandalwood, silk, and paper fans with designs ranging from calligraphy to landscapes. Prices from ¥30 to several hundred.
- Silk World (丝绸世界) — High-quality Hangzhou silk products, from delicate scarves to tailored qipao dresses. The shop occupies a heritage building and the staff can explain the different silk grades and weaving techniques.
- Zhiweiguan (知味观) — A legendary Hangzhou restaurant that has been serving traditional cuisine for over a century. Try their famous xiaolongbao (soup dumplings) and dongpo pork (braised pork belly). Both dine-in and takeout available.
- Baisui Fishbone Bridge Alley (百岁坊巷) — A small side alley off the main street with hidden cafés, vintage shops, and artisan workshops. Quiet and atmospheric — the perfect place to escape the crowds and discover something unexpected.
- Southern Song Imperial Street Museum — Free admission. Displays the excavated Song-dynasty road, architectural models of ancient Lin'an, and artifacts from the imperial capital. A must-visit for understanding the historical significance of the street beneath your feet.
- Evening Architecture Walk — After dark, the Republic-era buildings are illuminated with warm lighting that highlights their architectural details. The atmosphere transforms completely — quiet, romantic, and magical. Best experienced between 18:00 and 20:00.
Best Time to Visit
When to Go
- Best season: Spring (March–May) and Autumn (September–November) for comfortable walking weather and pleasant temperatures.
- Best time of day: Morning (8:00–10:00) for quiet photography with soft light and empty streets; Evening (18:00–20:00) for illuminated architecture and a magical atmosphere.
- Avoid: Weekends and Chinese public holidays, when the Hefang Street section becomes extremely crowded with domestic tourists.
- Rainy days: Surprisingly rewarding — the covered arcades and shop-house overhangs provide shelter, and the wet stone pavement creates beautiful reflections that are a photographer's dream.
- Photography tip: The Republic-era buildings look their best in warm late-afternoon light (around 16:00–17:30), when the golden sun highlights the ornate facades and casts long, dramatic shadows across the street.
FAQ
Is the street free to walk?
Yes, it's a public street open 24 hours. The Southern Song Imperial Street Museum is also free to enter. Individual shops and the Huqingyutang Museum have their own operating hours.
How is this different from Hefang Street?
Hefang Street (清河坊) is the commercialized pedestrian section filled with souvenir shops, snack stalls, and crowds. The Imperial Street (Zhongshan Middle Road / 中山中路) is the quieter, more authentic historic stretch to the north, with genuine Republic-era architecture, heritage businesses, and a fraction of the tourists.
Can I see the original Song-era road?
Yes. There is a glass-covered excavation near the Southern Song Imperial Street Museum where you can look down at the original Song-dynasty stone road surface, preserved exactly as it was laid over 800 years ago.
How long does it take to walk the full length?
About 30–40 minutes without stops. With museum visits, shop browsing, and time to appreciate the architecture, budget around 2 hours for a thorough exploration.
Is it close to West Lake?
Very close — the northern end of the Imperial Street is approximately 10 minutes' walk from the West Lake Lakeside area. It's an easy addition to any West Lake itinerary.
Are there good restaurants?
Yes. Zhiweiguan (知味观) is a Hangzhou institution famous for xiaolongbao and dongpo pork. Many smaller local eateries line the street, offering everything from traditional noodles to modern café fare. The Hefang Street section at the southern end has abundant street food options.